Used Camera Buying Guide
What to Check Before You Buy

1. Verify the Shutter Count

Shutter count is the single most important metric for a used camera body. It tells you how much of the mechanical shutter's rated life has been consumed — like the odometer reading on a used car.

How to verify the count reliably

• Ask for a freshly shot RAW file (CR3, NEF, ARW, RAF) — not a JPEG, not a screenshot, and not a file provided in advance.
• If buying in person, watch the seller take the shot. Remotely, ask them to photograph something time-specific (a newspaper, today's date on a phone screen) to confirm the file is new.
• Check the date/time in the EXIF matches when the seller says the shot was taken.
• Cross-reference the count with the rated shutter life for that specific model.

2. Sensor Condition Check

The sensor is the most expensive component to repair. Always test it before buying.

Dust and spots test

• Set the camera to the smallest aperture (f/16 or f/22) and manual exposure.
• Photograph a plain white wall or the sky, slightly defocused.
• Check the resulting image at 100% zoom for dark spots — these are dust particles on the sensor or low-pass filter.
• A few dust spots are normal and can be cleaned; many spots or spots that reappear after cleaning suggest a damaged sensor seal.

Dead pixels and hot pixels

• Shoot a long exposure (5–30 seconds) with the lens cap on, at a high ISO (3200+).
• Look for bright coloured spots in the black image — these are hot or dead pixels.
• One or two hot pixels are common; a cluster of hot pixels or any dead pixels (permanently black) are defects.

Banding or uneven exposure

Photograph a uniformly lit surface and look for horizontal or vertical banding across the frame. Banding is a sign of shutter curtain wear or a failing sensor readout circuit — both expensive repairs.

3. Physical Inspection

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  Body and top plate: Light scuffs are cosmetic; deep gouges or cracks in the body suggest a drop. Check that the body is not bent or warped around the mount.
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  Lens mount: Examine the mount contacts for corrosion, scratches, or flattening. Bent mount pins prevent communication with lenses and are expensive to repair.
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  Viewfinder / EVF: Look through the viewfinder for fungus, fogging, or scratches on the eyepiece glass. Fungus is particularly problematic as it can spread.
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  LCD / rear screen: Check for dead pixels, pressure cracks (often hidden under screen protectors), and delamination around the edges.
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  Rubber seals and grips: Worn or sticky rubber is cosmetic but indicates heavy use. Check the rubber around the viewfinder and grip area.
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  Hotshoe: Check the shoe contacts for corrosion or damage. A bent centre pin can prevent flash synchronisation.
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  Card slot and battery compartment: Open both compartments. Check for bent or missing pins, and water ingress marks (white residue or rust).

4. Functional Tests

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  All buttons and dials: Press every button and turn every dial. Pay particular attention to the main command dials — worn encoders cause erratic behaviour and are common on high-use bodies.
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  Autofocus: Mount a lens (if you have one) and test AF in both single and continuous modes. Test eye-tracking and subject recognition if the camera supports it.
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  Image stabilisation: Enable IBIS and shoot at a slow shutter speed. Compare to a shot with IBIS off — you should see a clear improvement.
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  Video recording: Record a short video clip and play it back. Check for overheating warnings, autofocus hunting, or audio issues.
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  Battery health: Check the battery charge level indicator after a full charge. A battery that drops rapidly may need replacement (€40–80 for genuine OEM batteries).
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  Wi-Fi / Bluetooth: Pair the camera with your phone via the manufacturer's app to confirm wireless functions work.
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  GPS (if applicable): Take a photo outdoors and verify GPS coordinates appear in the EXIF data.

5. Paperwork and Provenance

• Original box and accessories: Adds value and suggests careful original ownership.
• Warranty: Manufacturer warranties are typically non-transferable, but some retailers offer transferable warranties. Check if any remains.
• Service history: Has the shutter been replaced? If so, the current count resets to near zero — valuable, but verify with a service receipt.
• Purchase receipt: Confirms the camera was not stolen (especially important for expensive bodies).
• Serial number check: Some camera brands maintain online serial number verification tools. A mismatch between the box and body is a red flag.

6. Price Negotiation

Armed with the shutter count and inspection results, use these factors to negotiate:

• High shutter count — each 10% of rated life above 50% warrants a 3–7% price reduction, depending on the model and its repair cost.
• Missing accessories — replacement battery (~€50), charger (~€30), strap (~€20), body cap (~€10).
• Cosmetic damage — deep scratches or worn rubber are cosmetic but justify a small discount.
• No box or paperwork — typically worth 5–10% off market price.
• Sensor dust requiring professional cleaning — sensor cleaning service costs ~€30–80.

Check Shutter Count by Brand